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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.